The “ Troll ’s Tongue ” is a spitting of rock that hangs 2,300 foot above a lake in the Norse mountains . We take up our journey there , backpacking into wilderness few the great unwashed ever see . Here ’s how you could do it too .
I arrive in Norway two weeks ago to give up off an epic adventure around the world – wild camping wherever and whenever possible . I did n’t have much of a design for my prison term here , but on my first night in Oslo I met a couple of Irishmen at the hostelry who had been backpacking and wild encampment as well . They show me a tattered , printed map with their loop around a monumental fjord , and pointed to a scoring mark Trolltunga . It sounded cool , but I did n’t acknowledge what they were talking about until they showed me printout ofTrolltunga ’s Wikipedia page . “ Oh . That ’s Trolltunga . ” Of course , I had to go .
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My better half - in - crime , Daniel Bruce Lee ( yes , that ’s his genuine name ; yes , he is a martial creative person ) join me in Oslo a week later and we did n’t waste any metre make our way out west to go research what is more directly translate as “ The Troll ’s Tongue . ”
Why Go ? Trolltunga is an epic natural memorial to experience in soul . If you do the solar day hike to it , you’re able to take a photo out on the shelf that your friends will be jealous of and you ’ll have a unexampled visibility picture for the next year . However , if you want to experience something really incredible , do a backpacking stumble around its fiord . The surrounding gamy country is even more wondrous than the ledge itself .
I ’m not entirely sure how I got there .
Clarence Day 0 : Daniel and I travel to Skjeggedal , the small township that Trolltunga is most close situated to . A local heap drop us off at its final stop , about 5 km from the trailhead . By the clip that we were walk up , the sunlight was starting to adjust so we continued until we get the first flat ( flat is relative here ) patch of ground around and cowboy camped on the side of the voluminous mountain route .
eventually out of the shrubs and into the high country .
Day 1 : We rouse around 8 am , had a quick breakfast , and pop hike up up an old pathway back to the route . I discover that a car halt at the bend just a twain hundred human foot above us . We kicked it into high cogwheel , not wanting to miss our drive . Daniel and I crammed into the back of the tiny SUV and rode with a telecommunications doer up to the trailhead ; he dropped us off before maneuver to study .
Near the beginning of the hike , there ’s an legal action summercater rental company ( which I ’d assume doubles as a gift shop , ) a couple of parking lots , and a few bathrooms . There ’s also a body of water faucet , so we filled up before hit the lead .
The hike to Trolltunga is 11 km and begins with a usurious climbing out of the fjord . That discussion section of trail cue me a lot of rise out of Yosemite Valley — specifically the tramp to Upper Yosemite Falls . It was steep , jolty , and stepped . Even the vegetation look similar . The climb however , was much shorter . Within an hour , we were leaving the shrubby plants and trees behind and entering the eminent commonwealth .
Along the elbow room , we gather an American couple from Nashville . The four of us hit it off somewhat quick and we hike up together until reaching Trolltunga .
There ’s a decent ladder leading down to the ledge .
Trolltunga : From what locals enjoin us , people will hold off in a line that stretches back century of time for hour , just to get a picture out on the tongue . I ca n’t really blame them — that is why most people boost to Trolltunga . However , that was n’t the experience for us . Maybe because it was the last hebdomad of the season , or because it was in the midsection of the week — we did n’t have to expect at all . There were a smattering of people cling out , pick out pictures and admiring the view , but there was no queue . As soon as we were ready , we took go get going out onto the shelf doing affectation and take word picture . Then I climbed down to a lower ledge to photograph Daniel on the spit from a different perspective .
Belay on ! I was testing Daniel ’s trust .
As the sun set , the day hikers returned to their cars . Daniel and I had carried climb power train and a Mexican valium with us on the trip , so we found a unspoilt chance to use it . I climbed back down to the downhearted ledge and set my television camera up on a tripod , turned on my intervalometer , and started buck . Then I climbed back up , last out onto the tongue , and set Daniel up on a belay , allowing him to lean out over the edge to get an epic shot . By this point , no one else was even around .
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After have what we wanted , Daniel and I typeset up camp near a small alpine lake a duad hundred foot from the clapper , on a bluff that overlooked the fjord below . Most epical encampment ever .
Daniel paint the Milky Way .
The sky was clear that night and the Milky Way was seeable to the naked eye , so we seized the perfect opportunity to do some astrophotography . I want to capture a really unique image of Trolltunga , so I had Daniel stand out on the shelf in the dark and shine his headlight up to the sky . He was painting the galaxy . We finally baffle to sleep around midnight .
Ca n’t say I ’ve ever had a more scenic campsite .
twenty-four hours 2 : We slept in , but rose before the sun creep over the ridge behind us . There were two other brace of backpackers who had camped out the night before ; all six of us were waiting for the first re of visible radiation to fall upon the epic shelf . We were waiting … to put nude . Once we got our final spirit for the lingua Daniel and I go back to ingroup , made breakfast , take up , and hit the trail .
Trolltunga rests on the brim of one side of the fiord . It ’s about 700 1000 above the control surface of the water below . The trail into the backcountry lead us higher still .
Another kingdom ? Nope , it ’s Norway .
We hiked over passes , descended into valleys , and crossed gelid plains — each one more stunning than the ace before . Daniel and I were constantly blown aside by the grandeur of the landscape we passed through . In a lot of ways , they remind us of thoseseen in the High Sierra . In other way , they were entirely exotic . It was amazing to see past glaciers ’ striking effect on the landscape before us . Valleys that extend for sea mile . Boulders strewn across the knit stitch . We had never image so many alpine lakes .
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Even while carry the gargantuanGregory Denali 100L , Daniel was spry as a ninja .
The first 11k of the Trolltunga loop was the most obnoxiously - marked track I ’d ever see to it . tourist had no hope of getting lose on their way to the tongue . Once we go on past that landmark however , it was n’t always the pillowcase . A good trade of our hiking would have been considered thwartwise - country travel in the Sierra Nevada ; yet we rarely used a map . This created a greater sentiency of adventure in our journey . Every once in awhile , we ’d see a marker that permit us know we were on the right running . We were fine with that .
Our hike finally led us across a dam . Then to another . By this time , the Lord’s Day was last starting to set behind the next ridge , so we found a large alpine lake and encamp on one of its peninsula . Another starry nighttime .
The newJetboil MiniMoboils water quickly , can simmer , and pack down intimately than previous versions .
Clarence Shepard Day Jr. 3 : Morning routine : breakfast of oatmeal . Break coterie . Hike . To get to the lake , we traveled off - trail before cross the second dam . We figured if we kept blend in directly , we ’d link back up with the it eventually . In hypothesis , our logic was correct . In practice , there was a 100 m cliff blocking our way . I took off my pack and struggle 30 m down to see if we could rise to the valley below . We could not . alternatively of going down , we extend up . Up the side of a mountain . I figured the trail was on the other side ; and the mountain was there , it was like a gravitational pull . This is “ adventure change of location ” after all , right-hand ?
Daniel and I scramble up a mountain , just because it was there .
The view from the top was incredible . We could see for mile in every direction , and I figured that we could probably find the lead up ahead too . With faith in our navigational skills , we hike up down the other side of the mountain ; indisputable enough , we connect back up with the trail . Trail in this case signify hopping Boulder for the next couple of kilometer . Once again , we were okay with that .
This guy was pointing to all of the mess that he had already summit that forenoon .
It had been virtually two full days since we ’d visualise a single person . Deep in the Sierras , even in the off - time of year , you still see more people than that . So , we were surprised when a eloquent - hirsute Norse human race and his dog came bounding down the trail behind us at a rate of stop number that would better be trace as purposeful . He stop long enough to chat about the unseasonably - beautiful weather that we were experiencing together . His married woman had dropped him off at the trail head that morning ; he and his dog had already summited three mountains by the time we met , and he was on his room back to the car . After our brief but welcome conversation , he bounded down the trail and before long was just a dose on the celestial horizon . I swear he was actually the Dos Equis guy wire . Daniel and I both agreed that we wanted to be him when we grew up .
The fire sustain Daniels hands warm , while theAdidas Outdoor Terrex Conrax CP Primaloftwinter hiking boots did the same for his substructure .
We made our way down into the vale below as the piece and his dog disappear from sight . They were replaced by a monumental lake in the distance that would be our home for the nighttime . Upon arriving at the lake , Daniel and I set down our packs and explored the area . From a bluff , we could see into the fjord below . The parking wad for the trailhead was within position , but we ’d get there soon enough . While return to our pack , we stumbled upon some decayed baseball bat that would fuel our first campfire on this tripper . We set up shop class near the water ’s sharpness and stayed warm by the fervidness , eating dinner as dusk turn to dark .
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mean solar day 4 : secure gusts of wind shook the sides of our shelter , wake up us before the sun did . We rose early and reveled in the lakeside view as the icy wind chilled us to the pearl . Knowing that this would be our last day in the Norse wilderness for awhile , we took our time breaking encampment before steer down the final stretch of trail into the vale below .
Summer had turned to autumn when we were in the high country , it seemed . On our hike up to Trolltunga , the leaves were greenish . Now , they were arresting chromaticity of scandalmongering , orangish , and red . My favorite time of year was upon us .
Our descent was flying and we made it back to the valley in no time at all . We hike around another dekameter to the place where our adventure began . After dumping our scrap we started the 5 km walk back to the village of Tyssedal , where we ’d catch a bus . There would be no hitchhiking this meter . paving lumber is the worst when you ’re coming from a track , but at least the rainfall keep us cool .
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What You ’ll call for to Bring : Backpacking geared wheel . Being in the mountains in belated - September , we fuck that wintertime condition could sail down in a haste , so we prepared for the high-risk . Full rainwater gear , double - puffies , and warm sleeping udder would protect us from the elements if conditions got crude . However , the weather condition was perfect throughout . Days were warm in the sun ; nights were cold and curt .
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Because we were pack in Norway , we did n’t need any license or go through towild camp .
There were tons of alpine pee sources along the way . lake , flow , and waterfalls were never far off , so we did n’t have to carry much . employ discernment as to whether or not you need totreat your drinking water . The man with the dog did n’t ; he just bear a modest cup he had fashion from a calabash .
I ’m carrying my life around in the gargantuan , waterproofMountain Hardwear BMG OutDry 105Lpack for the next several months .
How Do You Get There ? We traveled to Trolltunga from Oslo , where I assemble Daniel . These were our step :
From Oslo S ( Central Station ) take theNSB Bergen Railwayto Voss . It ’s reasonably priced ; our tickets were about 200 NOK , roughly $ 30 USD each ( some specific departure times are flash than others . ) The car have electricity and WiFi , and the views are stunning as you journey throughout Norway from east to west .
From Voss , take the local Skyss 990 bus from the gear station ( it take off from out front ) to Tyssedal ( calculate on your timetable , there may or may not be a conveyance in - between . ) It cost us about 200 NOK each and you could pay with John Cash on board .
From Tyssedal , you’re able to take another local bus ( Skyss 995 ) farther up to Skjeggedal to keep a few kilometers of walk , or judge to thumb like we did . There ’s only one road going up there so fortune are that anyone who passes is heading to the same shoes that you are .
What Should You Do While You Are There ? Explore ! TheHardangerregion where Trolltunga lie down is full of mountains , fjords , and lakes . An talkative trail system will take you almost anywhere within the region . If we had more time , we would have gladly lost ourselves in there for weeks . The landscapes were stunning , and I was conk to mount some of the glaciate tip off in the space .
There are several local run company around Odda that pop the question icing climbing and glacier trekking tours , as well as a overplus of other escapade activities if you ’re looking for some more direction .
We hike around the intact perimeter of the lake along the trail . Download a GPX path of the trip .
What We ’d Do Differently : Stay longer . We already had flights book for Iceland from the nearby city of Bergen , but if we had more tractability we would have gladly spent another week or two explore the Hardanger region .
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